Pleated Fabric Innovation

In 1993, ISSEY MIYAKE launched Pleats Please, a revolutionary line that changed fashion forever. Traditional pleating involved folding fabric and setting pleats with heat, but these pleats could lose their shape over time. ISSEY MIYAKE reversed the process: create garments in larger sizes, then permanently pleat them through heat treatment. This meant the pleats were structural, not decorative—they were built into the fabric's DNA. The result was clothing that could be packed into tiny spaces, would spring back to shape, and required minimal care. The iPhone Pocket applies this same principle: the pleats are knitted into the structure during manufacturing, making them permanent and functional.

The iPhone Pocket's pleated structure is what allows it to expand from a compact form to accommodate your iPhone. The pleats work like an accordion—when relaxed, they create a textured surface with depth. When stretched, they open up to reveal the open knit structure underneath. This expandability is precisely engineered: too little stretch and your phone won't fit comfortably; too much and the pocket loses its shape. The pleats are spaced and sized to provide exactly the right amount of expansion for iPhone dimensions while maintaining structural integrity. This is textile engineering at its finest—creating fabric that's both flexible and stable.

One of the most distinctive features of the iPhone Pocket is the peek-through effect when stretched—you can see your phone through the open knit structure. This isn't accidental; it's a deliberate design choice that reflects Japanese aesthetic principles. The concept of 'ma' (negative space) celebrates what's not there as much as what is. When the pleats expand, they reveal the space between the yarns, creating a visual interplay between solid and void, between the pocket and the phone inside. This transparency also serves a practical purpose: you can see your phone's screen for notifications without removing it from the pocket.

The pleated structure has memory—it returns to its original shape after being stretched. This is crucial for an accessory that's constantly expanding and contracting as you insert and remove your phone. The memory comes from the combination of the yarn's elasticity and the pleated structure itself. When you stretch the pocket, the pleats open but the yarn maintains tension. When you release, the pleats close and the pocket returns to its compact form. This structural memory means the iPhone Pocket doesn't lose its shape over time, even with daily use. It's engineered to maintain its form for years.

The pleated structure creates a three-dimensional texture that catches light beautifully. Unlike flat fabric, the pleats create shadows and highlights that change as you move. This visual interest is part of what makes the iPhone Pocket feel special—it's not just a functional object, it's something beautiful to look at. The texture also adds a tactile dimension: the pleats feel interesting to touch, creating a sensory experience beyond just visual appeal. This attention to texture reflects ISSEY MIYAKE's philosophy that clothing and accessories should engage multiple senses.

Creating pleats through 3D knitting presented significant engineering challenges. Traditional pleating involves folding and heat-setting flat fabric. But the iPhone Pocket is knitted as a three-dimensional object, meaning the pleats had to be created during the knitting process itself. This required developing new knitting patterns that varied stitch density and tension to create the accordion effect. The ISSEY MIYAKE team spent years perfecting this technique, working with Shima Seiki to program the knitting machines to create the exact pleat structure needed. The result is a manufacturing process that's both high-tech and rooted in traditional textile craftsmanship.

The iPhone Pocket demonstrates that pleating technology continues to evolve. What started with Pleats Please garments in the 1990s has now been applied to accessories, opening new possibilities. Future applications might include pleated structures with variable expansion zones, integrated smart textiles, or even more sustainable materials. The collaboration with Apple has pushed ISSEY MIYAKE to apply pleating technology in new ways, and the lessons learned from the iPhone Pocket will likely influence future products. Pleating isn't just a design aesthetic—it's a technology platform with endless possibilities.